I think we were the innkeeper’s first customers of the day, and we ordered two espressos while we rested on the shaded porch. After serving us he crossed to a refrigerator on the other side of the room to get himself a shot of chilled rakija. Being a good host, he offered us some. It was ten in the morning. We politely declined. Though I’m sure it would have had wonderful medicinal qualities in case of any mishaps.